Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Good things to know before you set out on a trip like this

Ok, here's the bit you read if you are travelling to Badami, Aihole, Pattadakkal, Hampi - you could throw in Bijapur if you are interested!

Getting to Badami:

The easiest way is to take the state-run luxury coaches – the Airavat Volvos – from Bangalore to Badami. If you prefer trains, take any of the number of trains to Hubli, from there take the buses that run to Badami. These do not however match the time your train lands at Hubli, so the best thing is to go to the old bus stand at Hubli, take a bus to Bijapur and get down at Kozhdigeri cross (a close approximate pronunciation is ko-di-ge-ree). From here, it is an approx ~20 km ride to Badami, easily covered for Rs 10 on a tam-tam.

Where to stay:

The most exorbitantly priced hotel is Badami Court. Avoid it. Pick Rajsangam International – conveniently located exactly opposite to the bus stand. For Rs. 700-800 bucks a night for the basic rooms, it is expensive but is the best option in town for women travelling alone/in groups. Mookambika Deluxe is next door, a very shady place at first glance, might be alright if it’s just guys. There are other similar-looking hotels – Anand Deluxe, etc – situated on the main road of Badami. Also, there is the Mayura Chalukya, might not be a bad option too though we did not get a chance to check it out. Remember to check out the rooms before you check in – payment is usually upfront. And do not forget to bargain hard!

Tip: People in Badami like their drink. The most common establishments in the city are the cheap bars attached to every hotel. They are simply everywhere!

Sights in Badami:

Get yourself to the cave temples first – take an auto for 20-30 rupees. Revel in the grandeur of this awe-inspiring sandstone cliff that has been carved into some very alluring caves filled with gorgeous sculptures. On a hot afternoon, there is no better or cooler place to fall asleep than the fourth cave right on top. Watch out for monkeys though, they are human-ised and hence, very naughty and quite wicked and look down on women travelling alone! J Next, walk down to and around the Agastya Thirtha tank to the group of temples (the Bhutanatha temples) you see across the pond. Check out the Lajja Gauri sculpture in the museum en route – it will have you gaping.

Also make an evening trip to the Banashankari temple, it’s 5 kms from the Badami bus stand and approx. 50-70 rupees by auto. And the clear skies mean you get to see stars, lots and lots of them! Good food is hard to find in Badami. Badami court is expensive and is the only place that is reasonably decent. Don’t expect much here. Save your appetite for Hampi.

The Mahakuta temples are another attraction – if the heat doesn’t get to you try and visit this place. I did not get here, but it’s about x kms from Badami.

Patadakkal:

Patadakallu, as it is correctly spelt, is reachable by bus/maxicab autos from Badami. We recommend you go to Aihole first and take an auto back to Pattadakkal once you have seen the sights of Aihole. Two reasons – Aihole has a number of temples spread across a big area and it would be good if you can get here slightly early in the morning. And transport options seem to work better this way.

At Patadakkal, you will be dropped at a junction of three roads. Take the right that branches off the main road and walk down. A few feet, and the first of the gopurams come into view. Take your time to explore the clusters of temples. Hire a guide if you are intent on it. Else read up the ASI boards that give a lot of details on these temples.

Step out back to the main road once you are done. There are vans/autos leaving for Badami at a decent frequency. You might have to wait a little bit though. Enjoy a cup of chai at Ali’s blue tea shop as you wait for your transport to Badami.

Aihole:

Get here first thing in the morning; go around the main temple complex. Aihole is a bigger town, but with minimal comfort facilities for travelers or tourists. You will notice that old temples and huts compete for space alongside each other as you drive to the centre of town. The main temple complex is where your auto driver will drop you. A guide is useful here – ask him to point out the other two cave temples that are visible from the Durga temple. If you have the energy to do so, you can climb up for a closer look later. There are a number of other lesser explored temples, see if you can go up to those places as well. Your enemy number 1 is the sun that beats down on you – temperatures easily can be 38 degrees Centigrade in the shade. Make sure you drink a lot of water as you go around the temples.

Hampi:

If you are trying to reach there from Badami, take a bus to Ilkal and then to Hospet. Hospet to Hampi, as everyone knows is 13 kms away. There are enough travelogues about Hampi. I am not adding one more.

You know all about the guest houses too right? Kamlapura, Hospet and Hampi are your options – stay in Hampi if you can, I beseech you. :-)

Forget the guides, buy a nice good book, hire an auto/taxi/cycle/motorcycle/bullet and zip around in your own time. Sit. Breathe. Take it all in. Hampi rocks. A good guide book recommendation – John Fritz and George Mitchell’s “Hampi”. Available in Hampi itself for 350 bucks. Well worth it.

Enjoy! Cheers!